See Japan's castles the easy way

The Saga Rebellion, 1874

Article posted on Wednesday, September, 7th, 2011 at 6:31 pm


Hizen Province

The Saga Rebellion had its fuse lit when the newly-formed national Japanese government decided not to take military action against Korea. The Koreans, believing the Meiji Emperor was under the negative influences of European powers, had refused to recognise Japan’s divine leader.

This was indeed a change in behaviour as the Koreans had regularly sent emissaries to Japan’s capital during the Edo period (1603 – 1868) to offer their respects to each Tokugawa Shogun.

Letting this snub stand was unacceptable to the Samurai. Saigō Takamori proposed a military force be dispatched to the Korean peninsular but this was rejected due to the perceived weakness of its new army and the potential that war would bankrupt the nation.

For the former Samurai looking to be employed in this endeavour, there was now little hope of the once-mighty warrior class ever regaining any significant influence or that the government would reinstate their lost privileges.

Many officials resigned their post or simply left the capital with this news. Though forbidden to do so, Saigō Takamori retuned to Kagoshima, and a man named Etō Shimpei returned to Hizen Province.

Though this photograph was taken many years later, bullet holes can still be seen in the plastered walls.

Shimpei used his time in Saga to rouse up thousands of like-minded folk via his political party, the Aikoku Kōtō. The groups three main aims:

  • War with Korea
  • Reinstatement of the Daimyō
  • Expulsion of foreigners

On February 16th, 1874 launched an attack on Saga castle. He and his army of 3,000 were successful, though this success would prove to be short-lived. By the 1st of March, the castle was back in imperial hands, but Shimpei wasn’t to be found. He had headed south to Kagoshima hoping they too would rise up.

They didn’t, and Shimpei was soon captured. On March 18th, 1874, Shimpei’s head and those of 11 co-conspirators were separated from their bodies, the gruesome photographs of which ended up circulating on the streets of Tōkyō.

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Castle communications

Article posted on Sunday, September, 4th, 2011 at 10:14 pm


For most people taking photos in Japan, the challenge has always been to keep those ever-present power-lines out of the shot, certainly, that’s what I’ve always tried to do. But, in the case of Saga Castle‘s Shachi gate, power-lines weren’t the issue.

Right by the castle are two largish telecommunications towers. The NHK one that can be seen below, the other being Saga Television’s STS tower. Hey, let’s just call it borrowed scenery. In any case, the view seemed pleasing enough. I even had a bit of fun with it on Twitter.

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Saga Castle History Museum

Article posted on Friday, August, 26th, 2011 at 1:06 pm


It is such a pleasing thing to see more and more castle buildings being rebuilt using traditional methods and materials.

You may recall that I recently touched upon this in the post: The Rebuilding Phase. That post was all about the Tenshus (main towers) though. What I’ll be talking about today is the rebuilt Goten (palace) of Saga castle.

A scale model of the rebuilt Saga Castle History Museum. To the right is the Shachi-no-mon, the castle's only surviving structure from the Edo period.


The history of the Hon-maru Goten (本丸御殿)

It should be understood how truly rare it is that a castle be built in the early 1600′s and maintain its form throughout its active life; it was only natural that they evolve. And of course, most castles have felt the burn of… um, fire. Anyway, buildings were lost, alright? I didn’t do it.

It was in 1835, during the reign of the 10th successive lord of Saga domain, that saw most of the buildings of the castle reduced to ash once-again. Three years later, many of the lost buildings had been rebuilt.

1838 The Hon-maru palace was completed, along with the still-standing Shachi-no-mon (The Killer Whale gate.)
1869 The palace was used as the administrative offices of Saga Domain.
1874 Firearms were brought to bear on Saga castle. The palace survived unscathed.
1909 It is said that the palace was relocated and became known as Akamatsu Elementary School. However, a photo dating from 1919 shows the entrance & the reception hall intact. (Perhaps just one wing of the palace was transferred. Just a guess, folks.)
1958 The Goza-no-ma (the residential section of the palace) was transferred to Ōki park and used as a meeting hall.
2001 The Goza-no-ma was designated an Important Cultural Property by the city. Also, work started on the reconstruction of the Hon-maru palace complex at its original site.
2004  The palace opened as the Saga Castle History Museum.

Day at the museum

It clearly has the same appearance, and occupies the exact same location as the old Hon-maru Goten, but it’s best to arrive thinking that this is the Saga Castle History Museum and not some authentically restored palace.

Yes, the museum is of wooden-construction and has more tatami mats that you can poke a stick at, but it is very-much a modern building. I suppose electricity, plumbing and even air-conditioning are to be expected nowadays.

Regarding the historical exhibits, they tend to focus on the mid-to-late 1800's. Saga-han’s cannon building prowess receives a great deal of attention, as does the domain’s involvement in the Boshin War. I wonder if the blame for this shouldn’t be squarely put on the epic fires this castle has (barely) endured.

Well, that's about it

On its own, perhaps the Saga Castle History Museum won't make it on anyone must-see list. It just doesn't have that Wow-factor. Having said that, watch me get excited in this (year-old) video. Is it catching?

And for those who just can’t get enough, the palace/museum room-by-room:

Name Then Now
Ogenkan (御玄関) Main entrance The main entrance to the History Museum.
Oshikidai (御式台) Reception room Still a reception room but filled with computers to explore the castle's history.
Sotogoshin (外御書院) Official Ceremonial Hall Displays on Saga's contributions to Japan's modernization.
Gosanke-za (御三家座) Ceremonial conference room Displays on the evolution of Saga castle.
Tamari-no-ma (屯之間) Anteroom for vassals A resting room showing videos relating to the domain.
Gokoshoin (御小書院) Ceremonial conference room Themed Exhibition hall.
Goza-no-ma (御座之間) Private quarters This wing of the palace is a city-designated Important Cultural Property.
Goryōri-no-ma (御料理之間) Banquet Room Displays on famous people of Saga Domain.
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Saga Castle visit – Balloons!

Article posted on Saturday, November, 6th, 2010 at 12:49 pm


Days off & blue skies do not come around often enough – FACT. How lucky that they once again joined forces to produce a sensational day last Wednesday, a public holiday. To further add sweet complexity to the mix, it was the opening day of the Saga International Balloon Festival.

First thing's first. Please check out the updated photos and information on the Saga Castle profile page. There's a video (like it or not) and you'll notice the new theme has finally been applied to the main site (again, like it or not).

A photo that didn't make it onto the Saga Castle profile page is this one. This sign is located about 40 metres to the North of the castle, and I wonder if you can't spot the hot-air balloon behind the breath-taking network of wires.

(more…)

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