The mountain-top mystery sound

Article posted on Wednesday, November, 9th, 2011 at 10:05 pm

For anyone who starts to watch the following video, I’m almost certain your attention will be held for its entire duration! I concede, it is rather short at 17 seconds long, but let me assure you, it is that good.

So, I shot this video on my half-day trip to Koishiwara is Fukuoka Pref. The castle I visited that day was Chikuzen Matsuo castle. Anyway, click play already!

Den-den daiko

Article posted on Thursday, November, 3rd, 2011 at 10:04 pm

I had no idea what these were when I took the photo. While at work, so when I shouldn’t have been, I was looking at the pic on my computer and asked the person next to me what they were. Without missing a beat he said they were den-den daiko. He also said this particular manhole cover was unique to Asakura city (Fukuoka Pref), his hometown. It is indeed a small world that we live in.

It turns out I was familiar with them, and they are mesmerizingly fun to play with. They’re quite small and you get them to work by rolling the handle back-and-forth in your palms. This causes the two attached beads to hit the faces of the drums. Hours of fun for the whole family!

For a little more info, check out the Wikipedia entry. I love the last line, “The drum played a central role in the movie The Karate Kid, Part II.”

Yame-cha!

Article posted on Sunday, October, 30th, 2011 at 9:55 am

While this post definitely fits into the Route 3 and other tales of endurance (part I) umbrella, I’ve found it its own home because it wasn’t a major destination. I’d dropped by Yame city on the way back from Kikuchi and it seemed like a good opportunity to retire from the column of traffic I’d found myself in.

A selection of photos

There are quite a few old, white-plastered buildings lining the back streets of Yame. For the most part, they seem in use, many have been freshly restored and many remain droopy, cracked & warped. In any case, I like the look.

These cars caught my eye because the two sportier ones were once available in Australia as the Holden Piazza. The other car, a cute, light blue Honda, I recall from the obscure Australian film Malcolm. I don’t think the one below can split in half.

This vermilion & white hexagonal shrine (?) below seems a little out of place amongst its dull surroundings. Perhaps I’d stumbled onto the set of a Japanese version of Dr Who, this being his TARDIS.

Signs of life! Though not evident in the photos, people were in and about these places. Below is an Izakeya with chicken on the menu. Who doesn’t love hot chicken?

No-one can leave sober. (An obscure pun that I shouldn’t have bothered with.)

Apparently, Yame tea is quite famous. Don’t let the lack of customers fool you.

This final shot is of a large & tidy residence. It was around here that a did a u-turn and headed back to sneakily-parked car. It is nigh impossible to park your car for free in Japan. Good thing it was a Sunday with many businesses closed.

Route 3 and other tales of endurance (Part I)

Article posted on Sunday, October, 23rd, 2011 at 10:38 am

Since the start of August I’ve been pretty determined to get out-and-about more to explore Japan & its historical sites. Not an easy thing to do with a family and a far from top-earning job. It seems without serious effort, even the slightest distraction is enough to lock you into that banal, yet somehow necessary daily routine.

Each trip taken over the preceding few months was bound by the common theme of thrift. For all of the kilometres that rolled under my wheels, not one of them was on those expensive expressways. Limited funds meant I just had to cut corners, and better to do that with expenses than on the road where people might get injured.

What follows is my account of those many long (but not necessarily far) journeys around Kyūshū with just a little bit o’ Honshū thrown in. Strap yourself in for a ride in the slow lane.

On the road again

Far-and-away most of my driving took place on Route 3, a National highway that connects Kyūshū’s northernmost city of Moji to it’s southernmost city, Kagoshima. It may not surprise you to learn that beyond Moji is Route 2 (on Honshū.) What is surprising is that they meet under the sea bed in the Kanmon straits. Suffice to say, the view isn’t one to write home about.

Well, why not lets start there, on the Honshū side of the historic Kanmon straits? Getting there was no real drama despite not having a map, a car navi or a sixth sense. Having just written that I do recall missing a sign in the inner-northeast of Fukuoka city that burned 20 minutes of so.

Google maps tells me the trip is about 120km’s & should take 2 hours & 15 minutes, which is quite a bit slower than the major roads in Australia, but considering it’s Japan, it all seems pretty reasonable. “How long did it actually take?” I hear you ask. Well, here’s the answer: over four hours! Good thing I’d brought a cut-lunch.

Late, but all there was to be done was to make the most of it. I got my folding bike out of the back of the car and rode over four fricken’ km’s on a bike not made for someone my size. Reward for my effort was the stunning Kanmon straits bridge, the site of the Battle of Dan-no-ura, and finally a reconstructed Chōshū cannon battery of the late Edo period. All very interesting.

Back on the bike to where I’d parked the car. Time was marching on but I’d parked the car at the next place I wanted to see – Kushizaki castle (jin’ya) ruins. There’s a video at the link, so I suggest you check it out for all the fascinating details.

Sweaty & tired, I poured myself back into the car to search for the Katsuyama Palace (jin’ya) ruins. It was now that I needed a map, a car navi or a sixth sense, because there certainly weren’t any signs. I had memorized the general location of the ruins but had to stop for directions a mere stone’s thrown from the site.

Both the Kushizaki & Katsuyama sites were a joy to explore. I stayed as long as I could but there was yet another place to had to check out before the hot, hot sun hit the horizon. A section of Katsuyama’s actual palace had been relocated to a temple and I was hardly going to head back home without photos.

I did track the section of building down, and nearby it were some other interesting sights. It was time to get back though, to take the tunnel to Kokura then onto Tosu.

I left silently.

Kumamoto Castle – Outside looking in

Article posted on Thursday, October, 13th, 2011 at 8:23 pm

Well, aren’t I just all over the place? My last four posts put me all over Kyushu & even onto Japan’s main island of Honshu. Suffice to say, I’m not posting things as they happen.

The following video of Kumamoto Castle has actually been sitting my computer since early February (2011), and you should be able to pick up on the fact that it is fricken’ cold! I put off posting it because I wasn’t sure if it had any value. I mean, I didn’t even enter the castle grounds proper, it’s just me walking around the outside.

Anyway, tell me what you think.

Kikuchi Shrine & its attached historical museum

Article posted on Wednesday, October, 12th, 2011 at 10:09 pm

Here’s me getting ready to go crazy with my Kagoshima adventures (see last post: Sakurajima bang) and I realise that I have ton of stuff that I’ve yet to get to from the Japanese Summer school holidays.

I did some driving back in August, and why would I be driving around Kumamoto in my free time? To visit castles of course. The castle I visited that day was Kikuchi castle.

Interestingly, Kikuchi the castle is written as 鞠智城, and Kikuchi the city is written as 菊池市. Also interestingly, is that this type of thing isn’t that rare.

The ancient Kikuchi castle (鞠智城) wasn’t the only castle I had my sights set on that day, in fact. There was another Kikuchi castle (菊池城) and this one was of the later, Sengoku-period variety. (Confused yet?)

The stone castle-marker you see to the left was the only indication that the site was ever anything more than the local shrine, or so I thought. Not 10 steps to the left of the castle marker is a door, and a door I’d recommend you go through.

What I found was several large rooms filled with border-line fascinating, historical items on display. Most amazing of all was that the door was just open, no-one was there to collect the entry-fee. There was no entry fee. There were no visitors.

Thinking back now, it almost blows my mind the amount of history out there that is not locked away, yet still no-one gets to experience it.

On display

Armour, and quite a bit of it. The suits of armour below I’d date to the Edo perod (1603 – 1868). I don’t believe there were signs saying each armour belonged to so-and-so. The one photo I have with the sign clearly visible simply states that it it of the Etchū-style (越中流).

I don’t consider myself an expert on Japanese arms and armour, but its style of the armour below would indicate that it belongs to an era prior to those of the previous photo.

This was a surprise, armour of a Mongol warrior. The Kikuchi clan actually came to prominence (if I’m to believe Wikipedia) during (one of) the Mongol invasions of Japan at Hakata bay. Getting back to the armour, it’s probably a replica.

The sign says that this old roof tile was dug up from what was the main enclosure (of the castle.)

A fine array of weapons, and so rare that they can be photographed. There were no signs nor guards to say that photography wasn’t permitted. This place gets the Japanese Castle Explorer seal of approval.

Sakurajima bang

Article posted on Thursday, October, 6th, 2011 at 4:03 pm

The region of southern Kyūshū has long intrigued me. Over the centuries, there’ve been some fascinating conflicts involving both fellow countrymen & those from across the seas. Equally as interesting were the many positive developments that stemmed from early international relations (more on this later, so stay tuned.) Finally, how can we forget Satsuma-pottery or the humble satsuma, that small, loose skinned, orange fruit.

My visit there the other week, accompanied by Pool of Zen, confirmed that it very much is a unique corner of Japan, and more than deserving of the crawl-like, all-day drive that it took to get there. Of all the places we visited & of all the things we saw, the first thing I’d like to share with you is my first experience with an active volcano.

We arrived at Sengan-en (仙巌園) moments before it opened its gates. I’ve got to say, the whole place is amazing. It’s like an historical theme-park where everything is the real deal. You all really do have to visit. Anyway, that’s where I snapped the above shot.

I took the photo below, I’m guessing, moments after the mountain-top explosion. I say guessing because there was no audible bang, nor did the ground shake.

(Sengan-en official site)

Shimonoseki City

Article posted on Sunday, October, 2nd, 2011 at 8:54 pm

Shimonoseki City I did a lot of driving in August. The destination of one of those drives was Shimonoseki, Honshū’s most-western city. It is a fascinating place, rich in history (Dan no Ura) but carries itself like a seaside resort town. Btw, there've been some changes to the map. You can now watch videos within the map (Shimonoseki). Or, you could just watch the two Shimonoseki videos below.
Kushizaki Jin’ya Kind of an odd place Kushizaki Jin’ya. Check out the video (& castle profile page) and tell me what you think. I’d love to get a second opinion.	Katsuyama Palace Katsuyama Palace is a fantastic place to visit, it’s well hidden though. I had to ask for directions & I was 100 metres away! The ruins have a very unique feel about them.

The Matsuzaki Shuku

Article posted on Saturday, October, 1st, 2011 at 8:51 am

A slight detour from my trip home from work takes me here, the Matsuzaki Shuku (or is that Juku?) For those who can’t wait for the video explaining what this place is, it was a rest stop for Daimyō & their entourages on their long journeys (& forced visits) to the capital of Edo. This system was known as Sankin kōtai (参勤交代).

This particular rest-stop is located in southern Fukuoka Prefecture, so it was used by clans such as the Shimazu, Hosokawa and Tachibana, among others.

Very few signs of the Shuku remain today. Happily, things of interest can still be found if you seek them out.

Below is a building whose interesting styling and white-plaster walls means it get noticed. There was no information board to indicate that it even existed when the Shuku was catering to Daimyō & samurai.

This tin-topped, two-story building is the only inn that remains. It was one of many that once lined the streets.

Hanging onions who are paying for their crime of being yummy.

A seemingly abandoned building. I am intrigued as to what may be found inside. If only the side of the building would open up allowing me to pear within.

Damn! I still can’t quite see inside. I suspect if I take a closer look, someone will call the police.

This was so cool. These two trowel artists were applying the finishing touches to the house’s gable.

One of my final sights before exiting the Shuku.

Thanks you checking this post out everyone. I have been very slack with posting these last couple of months.

The Saga Rebellion, 1874

Article posted on Wednesday, September, 7th, 2011 at 6:31 pm

The Saga Rebellion had its fuse lit when the newly-formed national Japanese government decided not to take military action against Korea. The Koreans, believing the Meiji Emperor was under the negative influences of European powers, had refused to recognise Japan’s divine leader.

This was indeed a change in behaviour as the Koreans had regularly sent emissaries to Japan’s capital during the Edo period (1603 – 1868) to offer their respects to each Tokugawa Shogun.

Letting this snub stand was unacceptable to the Samurai. Saigō Takamori proposed a military force be dispatched to the Korean peninsular but this was rejected due to the perceived weakness of its new army and the potential that war would bankrupt the nation.

For the former Samurai looking to be employed in this endeavour, there was now little hope of the once-mighty warrior class ever regaining any significant influence or that the government would reinstate their lost privileges.

Many officials resigned their post or simply left the capital with this news. Though forbidden to do so, Saigō Takamori retuned to Kagoshima, and a man named Etō Shimpei returned to Hizen Province.

Shimpei used his time in Saga to rouse up thousands of like-minded folk via his political party, the Aikoku Kōtō. The groups three main aims:

• War with Korea
• Reinstatement of the Daimyō
• Expulsion of foreigners

On February 16th, 1874 launched an attack on Saga castle. He and his army of 3,000 were successful, though this success would prove to be short-lived. By the 1st of March, the castle was back in imperial hands, but Shimpei wasn’t to be found. He had headed south to Kagoshima hoping they too would rise up.

They didn’t, and Shimpei was soon captured. On March 18th, 1874, Shimpei’s head and those of 11 co-conspirators were separated from their bodies, the gruesome photographs of which ended up circulating on the streets of Tōkyō.