Ōsaka’s Megaliths

     

The Tako-ishi, Ōsaka castle's largest stone (by surface area.)

The castle of Ōsaka is an absolute must-visit for anyone coming to Japan. While lacking the obvious elegance of Himeji castle, Ōsaka is mesmerising with its river-wide moats and the gently curved & towering stone foundations. Complementing all of this are nine buildings that at least saw the close of the Edo period (1603 – 1868). To have even as few as that is a rarity.

It’s those walls though, that are the real standouts for me. Of what must be thousands upon thousands of stones, there are eleven that are of particular note due to their epic size. They are Ōsaka’s Kyoseki (巨石), literally giant stones, the smallest of which is estimated to weigh over 40 tons.

All 11 stones were located at one of three entrances, the Sakura Gate, the Kyōbashi Gate or the Ōte Gate. Each of these gates is (or was) a Masugata-style gate (a box-like set-up with one small & one large gate creating a path through two of the box’s four walls.) Why at entrances? That’s were they’ll be seen, of course.

The Higo-ishi, Ōsaka castle

The construction of the Tokugawa citadel was indeed a mammoth task, and for the Daimyo involved, an expensive one. Each Daimyo was expected to supply materials & labour for their allotted section of the castle. The Tokugawa regime was able get their fortress built, and at the same time, drain the finances of any potential adversary. Hmmm…. clever.

Of all the Daimyo it seems it was the Ikeda of Okayama who thought that bigger is better. All but three stones, not those in the Ōte-Mon entrance, were supplied by Ikeda Tadakatsu.

The other big-rock-lugging Daimyo was Katō Tadahiro of Kumamoto, A guy whose mighty big-rock-lugging efforts weren’t enough to keep him in favour with the Tokugawa. He was dispossessed of his domain 12 or so years later.

Below is a table detailing the various facts and figures relating to each stone. You’d probably best take all figures as approximate. Also, check the notes below the table for further clarifications.

Name Location Height (1) Width (1) Surface area Weight Origin
Tako ishi
(蛸石)
Sakura-Mon 5.5m 11.7m 59.43 m2 130 tons Bizen
Higo ishi
(肥後石)
Kyōbashi-Mon 5.5m 14.0m 54.17 m2 120 tons Sanuki
Furisode ishi
(振袖石)
Sakura-Mon 4.2m 13.5m 53.85 m2 120 tons Bizen
Ōte Mitsuke ishi
(大手見付石)
Ōte-Mon 5.1m 11.0m 47.98 m2 108 tons Sanuki
Ōte Niban ishi
(大手二番石)
Ōte-Mon 5.3m 8.0m 37.90 m2 85 tons Sanuki
Goban ishi (碁盤石) Sakura-Mon 5.7m 6.5m 36.50 m2 82 tons Bizen (2)
Kyōbashi-Guchi Niban ishi
(京橋口二番石)
Kyōbashi-Mon 3.8m 11.5m 36.00 m2 81 tons Sanuki
Ōte Sanban ishi
(大手三番石)
Ōte-Mon 4.9m 7.9m 35.82 m2 80 tons Sanuki (2)
Sakura-Mon Yonban ishi
(桜門四番石)
Sakura-Mon 6.0m 5.0m 26.90 m2 60 tons (3)
Tatsu ishi (竜石) Sakura-Mon 3.4m 6.9m 23.0 m2 52 tons Bizen
Tora ishi (虎石) Sakura-Mon 2.7m 6.9m 18.0m2 40 tons Bizen

(1) At longest point
(2) Unconfirmed
(3) Fell off the back of a truck

  • Toranosukev

    Fell off the back of a truck. Ha. I like it.

    It’s really something, imagining these daimyo from all over the archipelago (as far as Kumamoto!) sending such huge stones up to Osaka. If only it had happened a century or so later, we might have some good visual records of it in ukiyo-e prints or woodblock printed books…

  • Anonymous

    Yeah, I thought I’d thrown that in in the end. I’m glad you liked it. Stay tuned, I’ve got a hundred of them.

    It would have been quite a sight seeing the castle pieced together. Actually, I wonder if there aren’t a few stones that were intended for Osaka castle that now lay on the bed of the inland sea. I wonder if there is any printed material of the topic. Though, I have seen a woodblock print depicting the construction of the upper levels of Himeji castle’s tenshu. That’s it though.

  • http://twitter.com/OgiJima David @ Ogi Jima

    Nice article. And I agree, when I visited Osaka Castle, I was much more impressed by the stones and the moats than by the castle itself.

  • Anonymous

    Hi David. The walls & moats are indeed as impressive as they are exhausting to walk around. I’ve made the trip a couple of time but still haven’t gone inside the main tower.

    Thanks for your comment.

  • http://urutoranohihi.blogspot.com/ Lina

    Im going to appreciate Osaka Castle more if I get to visit it again. Great info and the absolutely ROFL on the fell off the back of a truck mention. :D

  • http://twitter.com/OgiJima David @ Ogi Jima

    I was kinda disappointed in the main tower as it was remade in the 20th century and looks very modern inside (but there’s an interesting little museum insode too)

  • Anonymous

    I’m disappointed by the fact that it’s concrete too, but also because that tower looks like neither of the two main towers that stood before. I can stomach a faithful replication on the outside. As for inside, I can just avoid.

  • Toranosukev

    Doesn’t look like what came before? Well, isn’t that interesting. It may be totally historically inaccurate, and I am totally with you on being annoyed or turned off by that, but isn’t it interesting how an incorrect version of Osaka Castle has today, for decades since its reconstruction, become the Osaka Castle that we know, the one that stands as a symbol of the city, that’s seen on postcards and calendars and everything.

    It’s just interesting how different versions of things can take on powerful and important meanings. If they were to tear it down tomorrow to rebuild it more accurately, that would make it inaccurate to the history of the genuine Osaka Castle that stood in the late 20th century… and there’s a realness, an authenticity to that too, and I find that concept quite interesting to think about. Memories and conceptions, associations of an image with a place, and with history, even if those associations may technically be based upon a major historical inaccuracy…

  • Anonymous

    That is a very interesting point you raise. And, the fact that “different versions of things can take on powerful and important meanings” was exactly what Toyotomi Hideyoshi had in mind when he wiped the Ishiyama Hongan ji from the Earth & replaced it with his Ōsaka Castle. And again, what Tokugawa Ieyasu was hoping for (in addition to sending a message) when he removed every visual trace of Hideyoshi’s castle and replaced it with the Ōsaka castle of today (albeit what remains has been mightily reduced.)

    As for the look of the main tower of today, it is said to be a compromise between the Toyotomi & Tokugawa tenshus, but for all most people would know, an exact replica.

    I really enjoyed your comment Travis, thank you. I wish I were able to offer anything half as intelligent on your own blog.

  • Anonymous

    Lina, thank you. I’m glad you had a chuckle. (I enjoyed your blog too. Son’s enjoyed the Ultraman post.)

  • http://www.budgettrouble.com/ Anna Ikeda

    Fascinating stuff! Thank you so much for sharing. And it must be an Ikeda thing regardless of where they happen to be from. The Ikedas of Utsunomiya also think that bigger is better, or rather, as the man of the house is fond of saying “the biggerer the betterer”.
    I’ll be sure to visit the castle if (when?) I’m in Osaka. :-)

  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_C5RYQJRNCMN5A6MVRBXMBXR7MI YoshiI

    Very informative post and I could learn a lot about Kyoseki there. The surface area is already big but it could be the tip of the iceberg. Nobody knows actual size of embedded area!!
    I will definitely visit there and see them in my eyes. Thanks for sharing.
    Yoshi

  • Anonymous

    I’m glad you enjoyed it. I suspect the post did so well because of the #showmejapan, so thank you!

  • Anonymous

    Yes, I do wonder how deep the stones actually are. When researching, the information stated that all eleven stones were 90 cm’s deep. I seriously questioned this so I didn’t include it.

    Anyway, Thank you, and I’m glad you enjoyed this post.

  • http://twitter.com/Tornadoes28 Jon L

    In the 17th century, lightening strikes severely damaged the castle, even burning down the main tower. With how prevalent lightening is in Japan I would think this would have happened often to Japanese castles with tall keeps.

  • http://urutoranohihi.blogspot.com/ Lina

    how old is your boy? Still pre-elemantary, I guess? ;)

  • http://www.facebook.com/people/Dennis-Boyd/1152601430 Dennis Boyd

    I visited Osaka castle again this year, and the walls and the moats impress me more than the Castle itself.  However, the castle museum is educational, with the displays of armor, Hideyoshi artifacts, and artwork.  I always greatly enjoy visiting Osaka castle park.

  • Anonymous

    Wow. I’m actually kinda surprised I know. (Though I see I’m five months late.) The central tower (Tenshu) of 15 castles were lost due to lightning strikes. Less that I would’ve thought.

  • Anonymous

    I swear, the next time I visit this castle, I will visit the museum in the main tower. I blame the huge grounds for always exhausting me before I get there.

  • http://twitter.com/Toshogu Jon Lenvik

    No worries. :) Yeah, that’s less then I would think too.