See Japan's castles the easy way
Towering inferno
Article posted on Saturday, September, 11th, 2010 at 10:06 pm
For those of you not here in Japan, the country is currently experiencing its annual heat-wave. This occurrence may be familiar to you as Summer. The heat I can pretty much put up with. The real killer has been this unrelenting humidity. It’s got me feeling nostalgic for the days when I worked at Hungry Jacks (Burger King) and could walk into the freezer for some sweet relief.
There is certainly no relief to be found at Fukuyama castle. The main tower of Fukuyama castle was rebuilt in 1966 in concrete, as was the fashion of the day, it is also non-air-conditioned. Housed within this massive concrete layer-cake are hundreds of historical items dutifully protected from damaging UV by the shuttered windows.
It seems the resulting sauna-like conditions are a massive turn-off for tourists; the one or two fans scattered on each level just aren’t cutting it. Installing some air-conditioning post haste would save the day (and possibly better maintain the exhibits) but it just isn’t that simple. This is a National Historic Site and the proposal will have to go through a committee before such issues can be resolved.
You know what? Maybe Autumn would be the ideal time for a visit. It looks like I’ll just have to postpone my trip for just a little while longer. No sweat.
*** edit: This post was based on this Asahi Shinbun article – http://mytown.asahi.com/areanews/hiroshima/OSK201009080135.html ***
Fukuoka castle tower
Article posted on Saturday, July, 17th, 2010 at 10:10 am

Image credit: Yomiuri - http://www.yomiuri.co.jp/national/news/20100702-OYT1T00308.htm
There have been so many castles built with massive stone bases for their central towers but now have nothing sitting atop them.
It is generally known when & how these central towers (keeps/tenshus) were lost, but there are cases where mystery still surrounds these old structures. I’m not talking about the small details like their height or appearance, but whether the tower actually even existed.
There are two schools of thought on what became of Fukuoka castle‘s main tower. Some believe the main tower was dismantled and shipped to Osaka to aid in the rebuilding of Ōsaka castle (completed in 1620). Why would Kuroda Nagamasa relinquish his castle’s crowning glory? As a sign of his loyalty to the Shoguate of course. Those opposed to this view simply believe none ever existed.
Pictured is Mr. Odawara along with a model of how Fukuoka castle’s main tower may have once looked. It turns out he is an even bigger fan of Fukuoka castle than I am. He is chairman of the Castles of Chikuzen study group, so I guess he must be. The motivation behind the building of the 1:150 scale model is to promote the (re)building of a 1:1 tower.
Will Fukuoka’s tenshu ever be built? Perhaps the answer can be found in this older post: At what cost?
Matsue Castle no longer to be an ICP?
Article posted on Thursday, July, 15th, 2010 at 1:29 pm
Breaking news
It appears the days of Matsue castle‘s main tower being listed as an Important Cultural Property are numbered. They are going to tear it down.
Of course they’re not. (Did my lame ruse hook you for even a moment?) A committee has been established to determine if this particular I.C.P should be upgraded to National Treasure status. And, I don’t mean that it will appear in an upcoming Nicolas Cage movie. If so, they probably should tear it down.
According to an on-line newspaper article, a committee made up of 12 experts, will survey the castle structures and examine historical documents to assess the historical value. On the 13th of July, the committee did in fact visit the site and… “examined the stone foundations & climbed the main tower”. Wow. The ball is indeed rolling.
No doubt a conclusion will be reached in the coming years.
Other Japanese-castle-related national treasures
Hikone Castle – Main tower and two attached turrets.
Himeji Castle – Main tower, three sub towers and four attached turrets.
Matsumoto Castle – Main tower, one sub tower and three attached turrets.
Inuyama Castle – Main tower.
Nijō Castle – The six components of the Ninomaru Palace.
P.S.
I was alerted to this news by an Daily Yomiuri newspaper article, but those articles don’t last too long on the internet. So, no link. Couldn’t link anyway. To link to an on-line, Japanese newspaper article, permission to do so must first be sought and given.
Cease fire!
Article posted on Saturday, April, 17th, 2010 at 6:12 pm
On the 14th of April 2010 an attempt at arson was made upon the Najima Gate of Fukuoka Castle. This is pretty big news in my world as it was one of the first castle-related buildings I’d ever seen. You may recall in a recent post titled Wooden buildings burn where I’d stated that at any time, any one of Japan’s historical buildings could go up in flames, how spooky that this almost came to pass and so soon. Whoever attempted to set the old gate ablaze should have their thumbs cut off then made to text message everyone in Japan apologizing.
The incident:
At about 5:40 on Wednesday morning, two men attempted to torch the gate. Fortunately, all they succeeded in doing was to singe a 30cm square area on one of the doors before hot footing it. An early riser was able to raise the alarm by notifying the police. The investigation continues.
The gate:
The gate was built along with Najima Castle back to 1587 by the Kobayakawa clan. I find it an odd looking gate, partly because of its black and white exterior & partly because there is just something odd about it. As to its structure, it’s a free-standing, turret-topped gate with roof tiles that appear to date from the modern era.
Daimyo of 1867
Article posted on Tuesday, April, 6th, 2010 at 9:47 pm
A while back I got an email out of the blue
from someone requesting use of one of my castle photos for a book. How cool is that? Fast-forward to the present day, this morning in fact, and waiting in my in-box was an email informing me that the book containing the requested photo had just been published. It isn’t the National Geographic, but I for one am pretty thrilled.
I should point out that what follows isn’t a critical review, the book is neither sitting in front of me, nor did pay enough attention during class in high school if it were.
What I do know is that this isn’t your average book of the samurai of the Edo-period. Yes, it is filled with all the important names, dates, places, events & background information that should be there, but it is actually targeted toward people wanting to use the Edo period as the setting of their creative masterpieces.
I might just leave it there because there’s no point to me just repeating everything that’s in the press release or on the publisher’s home page. But, I suggest you click on those links if you’d like to get a better idea of what the book has to offer & to see some selected pages.
What is well worth mentioning is the fact that Tadashi Ehara, the book’s author, has made the offer of a 33% discount exclusively to JCE blog readers (that’s you guys!) Just get in contact by commenting below, by email (kyushudan [at] yahoo.com.au) or direct message on Twitter for those who are interested. Thank you Tadashi.
For the sake of transparency, I’d just like to say that I won’t be receiving any commission or reward if you decide to buy this book. One more thing. The photo I provided it that of Hirado castle.
At what cost?
Article posted on Wednesday, March, 24th, 2010 at 12:45 pm

Interior of Kumamoto Castle's rebuilt palace
There’s a lot of rebuilding (castle-related of course) going on around Japan these days. And unlike in the 50′s & 60′s, where designers pretty much did as they pleased, all work must be completely authentic & accurate.
Things are so strict some government bodies are offering rewards for evidence that can provide precise details of the original buildings. Many restoration projects have in fact stalled due to lack of reference materials.
Perhaps many castles would benefit from the (slight) easing of such regulations but that isn’t the cost I’ll be refering to from here on in. I got a question about the actual cost of reconstructions, and so after a bit of research (googling), came up with the following figures.
| Where | What | Cost – JPY | Cost – USD |
| Ōzu Castle | Main tower | ¥2,000,000,000 | $22,000,000 |
| Himeji Castle | Main tower (restoration) | ¥2,800,000,000 | $30,900,000 |
| Nagoya Castle | Palace | ¥15,000,000,000 | $165,700,000 |
| Kumamoto Castle | Palace | ¥5,400,000,000 | $59,650,000 |
| Saga Castle | Palace | ¥2,000,000,000 | $22,000,000 |
| Kumamoto Castle | Iida Turret (5 story) | ¥760,000,000 | $8,400,000 |
| Kumamoto Castle | Inui Turret (3 story) | ¥460,000,000 | $5,000,000 |
| Kumamoto Castle | Hitsujisaru Turret (3 story) | ¥300,000,000 | $3,300,000 |
| Kumamoto Castle | Taiko Turret (1 story) | ¥230,000,000 | $2,500,000 |
| Kumamoto Castle | Minami Ōtemon Gate | ¥610,000,000 | $6,700,000 |
| Fukuoka Castle | Shimonohashi Ōtemon Gate | ¥300,000,000 | $3,300,000 |
| Kanazawa Castle | Imori moat | ¥1,000,000,000 | $11,000,000 |
Kumamoto’s Mugishima castle – reburied
Article posted on Friday, February, 19th, 2010 at 7:34 pm
Planning for a day trip
In March I’ll have some spare time on my hands so I thought it’d be the perfect opportunity to check out some of the castles I haven’t been to in southern Kumamoto Prefecture. The candidates include Yatsushiro, Uto, Hitoyoshi & Sashiki castles. A little investigating revealed even more, (smaller and older) castles that I wouldn’t mind checking out if time allows.
While searching for information on Yatsushiro castle, I came across news of the recently (not really) rediscovered Mugishima Castle. And the most surprising thing about this castle is that the locals would’ve been quite happy to see the remnants bulldozed. But more on that later.
Mugishima Castle
The castle was built in 1588 by Konishi Yukinaga, a Christian daimyō who eventually lost this castle & his life following defeat in the Battle of Sekigahara. The Katō clan then took over and continued to use the castle until 1619 when it became damaged by a major earthquake.
Yatsushiro Castle
A law was enacted in 1615 that essentially limited each domain to just one castle. While the number of castles was greatly reduced in the years that followed, the shogunate also made numerous exceptions, Kumamoto domain being one. Special permission had been granted that allowed both Kumamoto & Mugishima castles to be retained after 1615 & permission was once again obtained for Yatsushiro Castle to be built 1619. Hosokawa Tadaoki retired to here the following year.
Mugishima Castle’s rediscovery
During the building of a road & sewer, stonework belonging to Mugishima Castle was unearthed. Naturally, all work had to stop to allow for an investigation into the old castle’s remains. Substantial stonework along with broken roof tiles & collapsed turrets walls were eventually uncovered.
The following is a time line that will illustrate the truly glacial pace at which events occurred.
- 1950 – Decision made to build the road
- 1960 – Construction permit obtained
- 1965 – Parts of the castle were excavated. Declared Important Cultural Property
- 1996 – Further excavations were carried out
The final word
A great deal of tension existed between the parties involved, local residents wanted their road (having waited for so many years) & there were those who wanted the site preserved. A compromise was reached that would see the road & sewer work continue and also the site preserved. The path of the road would continue straight over the top of the ruins & the sewer would be built 7 meters below the ruins and with that, Mugishima Castle’s moment in the sun ended.
Photo via wikipedia
Marugame Castle – up to ¥10,000,000 reward for any old photos.
Article posted on Tuesday, January, 26th, 2010 at 3:33 pm
…but not just any ol’ photo:
The hunt continues for old photographs or postcards that can unlock all-important details of Marugame castle’s demolished turrets. “Discovery” of any materials that reveal the exact overall dimentions of the castle’s other buildings are essential before permission can be granted for their reconstruction.
The hunt has actually been underway since early 2004. In that time just 8 photographs have been submitted with none of these photos providing the crucial information. The city of Marugame does have some cause to hold on to hope though. In 1872, photos were taken of Matsuyama castle, also in Shikoku, and it is their belief photos of Marugame must also exist.
Let’s hope something turns up. Seeing Marugame’s Tenshu flanked by 11 linked turrets would be quite a site to see.
The original Japanese story can be found here: http://www.yomiuri.co.jp/e-japan/kagawa/news/20100122-OYT8T01346.htm
Marugame Castle in the Edo period:
The castle was first built by the well-off Ikoma clan in 1602. Over the next few decades, different clans were transferred here & they each made their own improvements to the castle. The current main tower was built by the Kyōgoku clan and dates from 1660.
In 1869, the Inui turret burnt to the ground and then it was in 1877 when all buildings in the Honmaru (main enclosure) excluding the tiny three-layer, three-story main tower were torn down.
Trash-talking Samurai
Article posted on Wednesday, December, 9th, 2009 at 8:34 am

Image: Japan Times
I came across this interesting story (dated: 20 Nov) on the Japan Times website. It’s about a nonprofit organization called the Osaka Armor Corps and their mission to purge the Osaka castle grounds of every cigarette butt & piece of garbage they can get their katana-like tongs on.
The volunteers have been on the job since 2003 and back in those days they would lug away a truckload of rubbish. Nowadays though, the 20-or-so Samurai garbologists are carting away only a couple of large garbage bags worth.
The man heading the charge is Kazumi Kawai, a part-time high school teacher, who also instructed his troop on how to make the their armour using cardboard strengthened with a special type of paint.
Not only are they doing a great job cleaning up one of Osaka’s great tourist attractions, but the tourists are loving it too, asking members of the Armor Corps to pose in photos.
Fuji san from Edo castle
Article posted on Monday, November, 30th, 2009 at 6:52 pm

CGI Mt. Fuji. Image: Yomiuri Online
Within the grounds of Edo castle in Tokyo there exists an old watchtower named the Fujimi Turret (富士見櫓). The Chinese characters of its name literally read the Mt Fuji viewing turret and no doubt it got it’s name as being a suitable place to um… view Mt Fuji.
It isn’t such a stretch to imagine that there was an even better place to um… view Mt. Fuji & that would have been atop Edo castle’s main tower. Unfortunately, that particular building came crashing down in flames in 1657. So, for the last 450 years or so we have had to settle with simply imagining the view. Well, at long last it has been imagined for us.
A group from Tokyo University have recreated the view using historical maps & computational grunt. Naturally, the view they have come up with differs from the vivid and heavily stylized Ukiyoe images.
Source: Daily Yomiuri online – http://www.yomiuri.co.jp/dy/national/20091126TDY03101.htm






