Japanese castles – Top 20 Countdown!

Article posted on Wednesday, December, 7th, 2011 at 6:10 pm

I was recently asked which Japanese castles were fascinating. I’ll be honest with you, I didn’t know exactly where to start. Not only did I struggle with what might be universally considered fascinating, I wasn’t sure how to organise a large number of castles into a concise & ordered list. I did give it some thought though, and here’s what I came up with.

The top 20 Japanese-castles Countdown

Even though I’ll be running through my top 20 Japanese castles in reverse order, I feel it’s the ones from 20 ~ 11 that are the most interesting. They’re are the ones less likely to be visited by jet-setting tourists, consequently they are the very ones you are least likely to have heard of.

20	Hizen Nagoya castle Sweet! This castle is fascinating. Let me tell you why. This castle was the one and only to be built with the purpose of conquering foreign lands. Also, it is the largest remaining of the Momoyama period (1568 – 1600).
19	Takamatsu castle The city of Takamatsu sits very much at the doorstep of this fine, little castle. At this very moment, work is underway to rebuild what can only be described as a real ugly-duckling of a central tower.
18	Ōzu castle No expense was spared to bring back to life the keep of Ōzu castle. Completed in 2004, it was made as close to the original as was humanly possible. It doesn’t even comply to modern building standards!
17	Yamamto Kōriyama castle Forget about the actual buildings, well, the actual castle buildings. Make sure you check out the non-castle buildings though. And, the huge stone walls have been neglected to perfection.
16	Hagi castle Hagi City needs your love. Consistent drops in population has meant it has received little development. This place, and indeed the castle (with is surrounding, old castle-town), exude rustic charm by the bucket-load.
15	Matsushiro castle This place rules! Diminutive it may be, the compact castle grounds and the kinda large, old castle-town are actually a pretty awesome combo. There’s a nice sense of remoteness about it too.
14	Azuchi castle This is the castle that redefined Japanese castles. It was grand, it was bold, it was decadent. It was the most spectacular castle Japan had seen. What a shame that it stood for just three years.
13	Akashi castle My visit here could not have been more perfect. What looked from the station to be some bizarrely-proportioned castle theme park, turned out to have plenty of surprises up it’s bizarrely-proportioned sleeves.
12	Uwajima castle “Look at me! I’m a samurai. And, this is my cute castle.” Seriously, could a castle be any cuter? It was probably never laid siege to because of the overwhelming urge to pick it up and hug it when looked at.
11	Kōchi castle Serious hat on now. The castle’s buildings date from the mid 1700′s and are unique in that it is the only castle to have retained all buildings of the Hon maru, the castle’s main enclosure.

So, that’s the smaller, out-of-the-way, yet still totally interesting castles done. Do check them out if you are able to. And, to make the most out of your visits, I recommend finding out as much as you can before you visit. (click on the pictures!) Just because you’re on holidays, doesn’t mean you can’t learn a thing or two.

Next are the big boys! I’d say for anyone with an interest in Japanese castles, there’ll be no real surprises except perhaps the order, which is just a matter of personal taste.

10	Kanazawa castle The last decade or so has seen the resurrection of large sections of this castle. Still remnant are the myriad styles of stone cutting & stacking. There’s also the extant Ishikawa gate complex.
9	Nagoya castle This castle may just get bumped up the list in the coming years. There are some big, old turrets, and the extravagant Hon-maru palace is slated for completion in 2017.
8	Matsue castle With the main tower of this castle, you get a real sense that it was built with purpose, which of course, it was. I think I mean it just isn’t elegant like other castles.
7	Hikone castle Japan’s most graceful main tower? Yeah, I think so. Those gables are just mesmerizing. There’s plenty to see within the castle grounds, not to mention the attached Edo period (1603 – 1868) garden.
6	Matsuyama castle Matsuyama castle is a largely-complete, hilltop castle. It’s beautiful, and it is filled with interesting historical displays. You can even try on samurai armour! Warning – Requires patience.
5	Matsumoto castle The main tower is absolute perfection; great style and great atmosphere. It sits down at the fifth spot because the grounds are somewhat underwhelming. It is a favourite of many though.
4	Nijō castle Little known fact; the squeaking Nightingale floors of the palace is simply poor workmanship. Nah, I just made that up. There is nothing poor about this palace’s workmanship. I guarantee it!
3	Ōsaka castle Check out the green-roofed, white tower (pictured) if you have to, but I strongly recommend a stroll around the moat. And, keep your eyes peeled for Megaliths. Some are as big as the side of your house.
2	Kumamoto castle This castle’s builder, Katō Kiyomasa, quite obviously had the intention of making it hard for attackers to get into. Indeed, impregnable would’ve been a suitable word to describe this castle in its heyday.
1	Himeji castle Was there even any doubt? It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s a national treasure. It’s Japan’s most complete & stunning castle. Currently, there’s a big box covering the main tower due to repairs, and it’s still the best!

Honourable mentions

• Usuki castle. It finished up in 21st place.
• Aizu Wakamatsu & Hirosaki castles. There’s a high chance they’d be on the list if I’d visited them.
• Edo castle, visited but the gates had just closed when I arrived. If I’d gotten to walk around, I suspect it’d easily find itself in the top 10.

The End

What do you think people? Is it useful / useless? Perhaps your favourite castle didn’t make an appearance. Do you disagree? Do you think it’s the best list you have ever seen? Why not let me know by leaving a comment or a question. Also, you could show your love by sharing it via Twitter, Facebook or Google plus. Share buttons can be found at the top!

Yame-cha!

Article posted on Sunday, October, 30th, 2011 at 9:55 am

While this post definitely fits into the Route 3 and other tales of endurance (part I) umbrella, I’ve found it its own home because it wasn’t a major destination. I’d dropped by Yame city on the way back from Kikuchi and it seemed like a good opportunity to retire from the column of traffic I’d found myself in.

A selection of photos

There are quite a few old, white-plastered buildings lining the back streets of Yame. For the most part, they seem in use, many have been freshly restored and many remain droopy, cracked & warped. In any case, I like the look.

These cars caught my eye because the two sportier ones were once available in Australia as the Holden Piazza. The other car, a cute, light blue Honda, I recall from the obscure Australian film Malcolm. I don’t think the one below can split in half.

This vermilion & white hexagonal shrine (?) below seems a little out of place amongst its dull surroundings. Perhaps I’d stumbled onto the set of a Japanese version of Dr Who, this being his TARDIS.

Signs of life! Though not evident in the photos, people were in and about these places. Below is an Izakeya with chicken on the menu. Who doesn’t love hot chicken?

No-one can leave sober. (An obscure pun that I shouldn’t have bothered with.)

Apparently, Yame tea is quite famous. Don’t let the lack of customers fool you.

This final shot is of a large & tidy residence. It was around here that a did a u-turn and headed back to sneakily-parked car. It is nigh impossible to park your car for free in Japan. Good thing it was a Sunday with many businesses closed.

The Matsuzaki Shuku

Article posted on Saturday, October, 1st, 2011 at 8:51 am

A slight detour from my trip home from work takes me here, the Matsuzaki Shuku (or is that Juku?) For those who can’t wait for the video explaining what this place is, it was a rest stop for Daimyō & their entourages on their long journeys (& forced visits) to the capital of Edo. This system was known as Sankin kōtai (参勤交代).

This particular rest-stop is located in southern Fukuoka Prefecture, so it was used by clans such as the Shimazu, Hosokawa and Tachibana, among others.

Very few signs of the Shuku remain today. Happily, things of interest can still be found if you seek them out.

Below is a building whose interesting styling and white-plaster walls means it get noticed. There was no information board to indicate that it even existed when the Shuku was catering to Daimyō & samurai.

This tin-topped, two-story building is the only inn that remains. It was one of many that once lined the streets.

Hanging onions who are paying for their crime of being yummy.

A seemingly abandoned building. I am intrigued as to what may be found inside. If only the side of the building would open up allowing me to pear within.

Damn! I still can’t quite see inside. I suspect if I take a closer look, someone will call the police.

This was so cool. These two trowel artists were applying the finishing touches to the house’s gable.

One of my final sights before exiting the Shuku.

Thanks you checking this post out everyone. I have been very slack with posting these last couple of months.

Moon over the deserted castle

Article posted on Monday, August, 15th, 2011 at 12:33 pm

Such a haunting melody. Kōjō no Tsuki (荒城の月) by Rentarō Taki (滝 廉太郎) may well be a song you’ve heard but never heard of.

The sorrowful tune was completion in 1901, but it’s strong, nostalgic appeal has resulted in it being rearranged, re-interpreted and performed by notable musicians from every corner of the world, and still does.

It is said that Rentarō Taki wrote the instrumental having been inspired by the ruins of Oka Castle. Sadly, Rentarō died just two years later due to having contracted Tuberculosis. He was just 23.

Over 20 years later, lyrics would be added following visits to Sendai & Aizu Wakamatsu castles. I can also assume the lyricist felt it was important to do so.

For your entertainment

As I’ve alluded to, countless versions exist. To save you the trouble, I’ve waded through the Youtube soup, and have fished out the following three versions. The first, an instrumental featuring a flute, is truly beautiful. The second is operatic and features the added lyrics. The final one ROCKS, and is from a promotional video for the game, Gran Turismo 5.

The view at the top

Article posted on Tuesday, July, 5th, 2011 at 9:47 pm

How disappointing that Japan’s truly interesting castles get tourists. I mean, except for providing them with actual purpose, crowds are just about the worst thing if you want to immerse yourself in the aura & mystique of a centuries-old castle.

You can try to get there early if you like, but it’s not long after the security guards push open the front gates that the bus-loads of sightseers start surging through. They arrive with the determination and speed of a flash-flood, and are just about as welcome.

Once the swell of people arrive at your heels, you are swept through the narrow corridors and up the steep stairs as though you are surfing in a queue. The conga-line does make a stop though, right at the top.

We have now arrived at the upper-most level of Matsumoto castle. And, what I’ve just described was what I experienced last Summer on my trip to Nagano Pref. An amazing place to visit, but the view at the top wasn’t what I was expecting.

I’d really love for you to leave a comment. Perhaps you’ve had similar experiences.

A pretty penny

Article posted on Tuesday, February, 22nd, 2011 at 7:51 pm

You know, it has occurred to me that; Money, money, money, must be funny, in a rich man’s world. Is this a thought that you’ve arrived at yourself? No? Well, perhaps it’s just me and ABBA then.

This 500-yen coin is one of a series that have been minted to commemorate the 60th anniversary of Local Government Law. Exciting stuff. The first in the series was issued back in 2008.

I’m pretty sure these aren’t in general circulation (to lazy to Google it folks). I’d like to get my hands on one though.

The Namamugi incident

Article posted on Friday, February, 18th, 2011 at 10:53 pm

Setting the scene

In 1862, the acting head of the Shimazu clan, a guy named Shimazu Saburō (島津三郎), attended the Emperor’s envoy’s entourage to the capital of Edo. Perhaps he was there to offer weight to the request that the Shōgun travel to Kyōto to discuss measures that could be implemented to keep foreigners off Japanese soil.

In addition to his already stated purpose, there were two additional items Saburō wanted to discuss with the Shōgun. They were:

• the law requiring lengthy attendance by Daimyō in the capital (and when not there, hostages in their place) to be abolished
• for himself to be appointed by the Shōgun to a level of particular importance in the Emperor’s court

Not only were the above two requests denied, but the Shōgun didn’t even make space in his schedule for face time with the regent of Satsuma. This only served to add to what was already a deep, hereditary hatred that the Shimazu had for the Tokugawa.

The scene

A woodblock print depicting the attack upon a British national on September 14th, 1862. The man standing upright with the red, billowing Hakama is none other than Shimazu Saburō (this time written as 嶋津三郎).

The dangers of horseback riding

With their business more-or-less concluded, they left Edo. When on the Tōkaidō, the main road linking Edo with Kyōto and Ōsaka, Saburō and his procession came across four mounted Englishmen, one of which was a lady.

When the day-trippers got close, only one of the four dismounted & bowed. To dismount was seen as the right thing by the Japanese, but seen as appalling by every other foreigner in Japan at the time. In fact, the Anglo-Japanese friendship treaty that was in effect, deemed such an action as unnecessary for Anglos. In any case, Charles Richardson, pictured in the black coat & top hat, met his end for not having shown sufficient respect.

Compensation of ₤25,000 was demanded for Mr Rishardson’s death, however almost one year had passed and the British still hadn’t received the requested funds. Dissatisfied, several British ships were assembled and  proceeded to bombard the Satsuma capital of Kagoshima.

The Ransel – for kids and soldiers

Article posted on Saturday, January, 22nd, 2011 at 1:20 pm

In recalling their youth, it seems Japanese parents look on their elementary (primary) school bags with the kind of nostalgia that I’d reserve for my Star Wars toys. My own school bag did the same thing, you know, carry books & stuff, but In my home country of Australia, it was probably something we could kick around without a second thought. In some instances, It was the home of the very smelly, forgotten banana. A dreadful discovery.

In Japanese, the word for school bag is Randoseru, written as ランドセル, it is an introduced word (gairaigo – 外来語), coming from the Dutch language. By the looks of the photo below, it hasn’t always meant school bag.

The photo tells a thousand words, but I’ll add just a few more anyway. Both of the examples above exhibit golden Kamon, one is the Hollyhock (aoi – 葵) of the Tokugawa & the other is the horse’s bit (kutsuwa – 轡) of the Shimazu. I’m pretty sure these bags weren’t for traipsing off to school. The woodblock print shows a military parade from the Meiji Period (1868-1912), and the title of the display being: Hainou (Ransel) – 背嚢 (ランドセル). My Googling suggests that the first word, Hainou, is used to specifically describe a soldier’s backpack.

Thank you & Merry Christmas

Article posted on Thursday, December, 23rd, 2010 at 5:59 pm

To anyone who has ever shown the slightest interest in this passion of mine (prob everyone bar the stumblers.) To everyone who has taken the time to comment or just simply liked the site, I just really wanted to pass on to you a massive thank you! … and …

Have yourselves a very Merry Christmas!

A Creatively Assembled Castle

Article posted on Sunday, December, 19th, 2010 at 12:08 pm

Today I wanted to talk in-depth about the castle seen in spectacular 3D glory in the latest Shogun2: Total War video. The first thing I’d like to say is that I completely accept changes had to be made from a typical castle’s design for the sake of game-play. These departures from a real Japanese castle may be a deal-breaker for many of you but I suggest you build a bridge (like the very out-of-place one in the video) and get over it.

The scene

So, pictured below is the bad-boy. It is impressive, there are no two ways about that! Beyond the initial Wow, what struck me is the out-of-placeness of the castle. It looks to be a flatland castle (平城) transplanted atop a flat-ish topped mountain.

I heard a murmur in the forums about the lack of moats. Water-filled moats at this altitude? I don’t think so. Ditches (water-less moats) on the other hand, I think we should expect. The fact that this is a flatland castle does muddle things up somewhat, which is to say, both moats or ditches would look odd in this setting.

As to the when of the castle, the game’s makers state it’s set in the Sengoku period (1467–1573). Well, looking at the picture above I’d say we are at the very end of that period if at all. Of all the castles built in the Senkoku period, castles with central towers were in the minority. Even when there was a central tower (Tenshu – 天守), two-stories high was common. Getting in to the (admittedly) overlapping Azuchi-Momoyama preiod (1568–1603) taller and taller castles became the norm.

A closer look

To conclude

So there you have it, more comparative than critical. There’s just no other way for me to look at it. It is just a game, and a game I intend to buy.

Would love to hear your thoughts though. Anyone?